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When curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred establishments. However, tucked high among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has made the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their humble restaurant achieving such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its original charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary achievement.